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On your left you will
see the finish product. The rack was computer designed to follow all the lines of the
vehicle. Calculated stress points, made to hold weight, be totally functional for ease of
use. The rack is lined using "Speedliner" which is like a custom spray bed liner. It offers the most UV protection available to keep the color from fading, not like other bed liner products that fade over time. The air tight, contour fit permanently seals and guards from dirt, water and chemicals that cause corrosion. I read some of the test as compared with other products being 80% stronger. Other tensile strength spray liners have 2200psi while the Speedliner has 4000psi tensile strength. |
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Brush guard: As you can see this offers me excellent
protection when cutting our own trails. It will also drop down at 60 & 90 degrees. You
can sit on it, stand on it, carry wood, game, work on your engine, whatever your heart
desires. They made an adjustment since I had a two inch body lift. It clears my winch
perfectly. On the left you will see another TJ without a body lift. The Brush guard is held by two locking aircraft landing gear pins, strength is not a problem. When they were spraying the Speedliner I took my front bumper and winch plate out and had them spray the same coating on everything. |
| Can't say enough about the lights. I use to have the spot but found out that the fog type 55 watts gave me more coverage on the trail. I have them aimed 30 to 40 feet in front were you actually do all the work. Unless your are traveling at 50mph on the trail you do not need any more distance. It also has 30 watts Caterpillar type style lights on the left, right & back side. These are all cased in a rubber housing, they can really take a hit springing right back into place. They are excellent when you wish to see to the sides or stopped at camp. |  |
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On the left you will see the stainless steel cable
attachment. These are not meant to hold the Brush guard but act as a guard to keep trees,
branches, tall grass away from the vehicle. It guides them pass the upper lights.
Granted this is not going to prevent 100% protection against your ride being scratched,
but these cables keep a good amount of the big boys out. The cables do not get in the way of lifting the hood to the normal position. You will have to remove the cable if you wish to raise and rest your hood all the way back. The cables are simple to remove by twisting a stainless latch which loosens the cable sliding the eye bolt out of the chain link. |
 
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| Ladder: I need to get to the top.
Starting from left to right. I have a Currie tire carrier mounted with a 35" tire
which is dead center to the vehicle. You notice the modification to the middle step on the
first picture made to accommodate the larger tire. Picture two is another TJ with a
35" but the tire is mounted to the stock tail gate which mounts the tire more to
right. On the third picture you can see the upper locking pin that locks and unlocks the ladder. On picture four you can see how it swivels out and where the two additional swivel supports being locked with pins are. To remove the ladder completely just remove the two other pins. I personally have not needed to do this. The wiring on the lights come out of the left rear bumper rack mount and have quick disconnects on the wiring for rack removal. On picture two you will see a TJ which had 4 five gallons gas tanks and all his gear ready to roll. 4x4 Outfitters includes their rear bumper with their rack. I wanted to keep my Currie bumper with tire rack, it's hard to see on the pictures but they made a modification and installed it right on my existing bumper. In the future they will also have a tire carrier to go on top of their bumper. |
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| Switches: I could have had a bigger switch box with four individual switches. I decided for two, two way toggle switches with off in the middle and four red lights indicating which side is on. I do not need to have more than two sides on at a time. I mounted the box on top using the existing frame screws between the two sun visors. On the left you can see how I routed the wires coming down behind the dash and out to the relay box. | |
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Above right: Here you see the relay box, this is the
best spot I found to the right of the vehicle against the firewall. There are two whips on
the right that come out of the relay box. One goes to the rack connectors located in the
rear left rack bumper mount which I routed underneath the vehicle and out of the way, and
the other goes to the switch box inside the vehicle. There is a left whip that connect to
the battery and ground. Above left you can see the connection to the battery with two
inline fuses. I will later add a fuse block terminal to eliminate all the clutter
that I have connected to the positive wire on the battery. The other options are the lights, wiring harness, brush guard and cables. On the left you will find a picture of the guys that were responsible for making me this custom rack. |
