AtlasRotation.jpg (20633 bytes) AtlasSticks.JPG (12019 bytes)
Atlas II 4.3: The install instructions that came with the transfer case were more than adequate to allow me to make this simple modification. Above left you will see what it looks like on a TJ with the highest rotation possible, stock transfer case linkage removed and body hole for shifters. I did not have a transmission jack, what I did was to place the transfer case on my chest and lay on my creeper.  I rolled underneath the vehicle and benched pressed it up to the transmission. Had to take it in and out 3 times to check and align everything. Since I had a 2" body lift this rotation was not a problem. On the right is a picture of the assemble shifters which AA did not have.
AtlasButtons.JPG (8164 bytes) AtlasHole.jpg (12158 bytes)
Above left you will see the buttons that go on the shifters.  I do have to say this part was the hardest to adjust and aligning everything up with the stock console.  One thing that happen to me is that when I finished  installing the shifter boot and stock console, I went out for a ride.  The front shifters popped out under load.  I've heard of this happening to a few other installs.  I called AA and they advised that I did not cut the body hole big enough.  Took everything apart again and made sure I enlarged the whole big enough to accommodate the boot and shifters. AA was right as it never popped out again.   On the right you have the body hole with plate sealed with RTV.
Another thing to be aware of is to not overfill (not even a small amount) the transfer case with the Torco oil. I will come out of your breather tube and for a brief moment you will think that your transfer case is leaking. After it dumps what it need to dump through the breather tube it will stop.  Mark the level on your site glass if you have one for the next time you change your fluids.
TrannyPan1.jpg (27277 bytes) TrannyPan.jpg (25200 bytes)
TrannyMount.JPG (16536 bytes) In the next set of pics you see the modifications I made to the skid plate.  To beef up the skid I used 1/4" plate, welding all the flat spots. Used also a couple of rectangular angles to come across the skid. I only had to drill on hole for the access to the drain hole on the transfer case. Since I had the highest rotation no other cutting was necessary.
My skid plate was really dented from prior trips to the rocks. Due to this I did not have to make the cut to lift up the section of the plate that hooks up to the tranny mount. When I installed the plate it fit perfectly against the rubber tranny mount. There was one problem in that the bolts from the rubber mount stuck out through the plate exposing themselves to being hit by the rocks. If you look closely you will see the small bolt skid plate that I welded to protect the 4 rubber mount bolts. This did not make me loose any ground clearance as the plate in the stock form was lower to begin with.
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AxleFront.JPG (24533 bytes) RearDiskBrakes.JPG (18030 bytes)
GunCase.JPG (8258 bytes) Custom axles were purchased from Rubicon Express. They came in skids and to my amazement nothing was damaged in transport. Above you will see pics of the front axle on the skid and the rear axle already installed with the rear disk brakes. Installation was a simple bolt on for the rear including the new e-brake cable for the disk brakes. I did have to re do the hard brake lines at the axle as they were leaking quite a bit. The front axle was another story. I had to grind and cut one of the lower control arm brackets as they rubbed the control arm upon travel. The lower front control arms were cut 1/4" due to track bar hitting the front diff upon articulation. Overall I'm quite satisfied with the whole set up.
On the left you will see what it looks like a rifle plastic case. I purchased it at Wallmart. It houses all my spare parts that go with me on the trail. 1. Rear spare axle with bearings ready to slide in. 2. Front left & right inner axles. 3. Front outer axle. 4. Steering Drag Link. 5. Tie rod with both tie rod ends. 6. Spare CV rear driveshaft. Yes, I managed to get it all in there. It's a bit heavy.
UponJacks.JPG (23558 bytes) The rest of the pictures is what El Niņo looks like with out any axles or tranny skid plate. I thought it was going to be harder getting the axles connected to the control arms.  With a floor jack and one other person it was a piece of cake.  I installed the uppers arms first and left the lowers for last.

I lowered the TJ when it was all done, took some measurements and ordered both front and rear driveshaft from Tom Wood.

I took my stock front CV driveshaft and had Tom cut it to size for $30. I now have a spare rear CV driveshaft.

UponJacks2.JPG (28824 bytes) UponJacks1.JPG (26979 bytes)
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diffguard.JPG (16027 bytes) Simple to install modification purchased from XDoctor.

This differential guard has already protected my front differential cover from being smashed which houses my precious ARBs.

You will notice that it does not take up any precious ground clearance. I've never done this but you can actually use it to slide you diff over a rock by the angle in which it was made.

I'm also using a re usable special rubber diff gasket made by Karl Menger of Oklahoma. No more messy RTV and it's great out on the trail if you need to take your diff cover out for any reason.

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Flare.JPG (18295 bytes) Flare1.JPG (14766 bytes)
Extended 6" Flares were purchased from Teraflex. I did not wish to go with the 7" because I wanted my tires to give me the protection that I needed against the rocks. There is always a possibility with a flush flare of getting hit & possibly catching on something.  I've seen this happen. Let's face it, a little meat showing also looks awesome.
The install was pretty easy except for some of the hidden rear flare screws that gave me slightly more trouble. The front flare light hole was in need of light sanding so that the stock light would snap right in.
I went with Teraflex and not Xenon due to recommendations from a few people who advised me that Teraflex keeps their shape unlike the others.
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